Friday, July 17th

Jim and I arrived at Wallys about 6am, loaded provisions into Wally’s car and after the mandatory stop at Rocket Market in Millwood for coffee and breakfast we were on our way. We picked up the 90 heading east toward Montana and after five hours of driving found ourselves at the busy trailhead for Turquoise Lake high above the Swan River valley in the Mission Mountains, elevation 4,850. While loading gear for the trail it was hard to ignore the heat of the day, forecasts called for highs in the mid 90s. After bathroom breaks and water fills we shouldered our heavy packs and hit the trail shortly after noon. 

Trail 690 started out on a gentle grade along an old road that quickly reduced itself to an actual trail. We soon encountered our first creek crossing on a sturdy log with a hand rail. I was surprised at how much water was still pushing through Glacier Creek. Shortly after the first creek crossing we approached two more crossings near Crazy Horse Creek over high narrow logs where a wrong step could spell disaster for a hiker with a loaded pack. I couldn’t help but notice my knees weaken as I nervously crossed the treacherous tight rope, safely on the other side we settled in for an easy trail all the way to the junction with the side path to Glacier Lake, which we decided to save for the hike out. We continued straight in the direction of Crescent and Heart Lake as the grade picked up through a series of long switchbacks as we worked our way uphill along the huckleberry lined path. 

It didn’t take long for big views down to Glacier Lake and above toward Lindy Peak, and Daughter of the Sun Mountain to open up. After climbing about 700 feet in elevation we eventually gained the ridge and shortly after found the trail turn off for Crescent and Heart Lake where we turned right in search of a good base camp. The trail climbed higher as we entered the Crescent Creek drainage before finally leveling out, through the trees we passed several ponds before dropping to the shore of quiet Crescent Lake, elevation 6,080 feet. We found a great camp at the lakes outlet and dropped our packs. We decided to explore a small peninsula along the lakes south shore for a better camp, when none was found we retraced our steps back to the outlet camp. We took our time with the chores of pitching tents, hanging a bear line and gathering firewood before going for a quick dip in the cool waters of Crescent Lake. After cooling off I sat at the lake shore in my chair enjoying a cocktail while taking in the views across the lake to the Mission Mountain divide, snow still filled the couloirs along the east facing slopes of peaks reaching to over 8,000 feet, a stunning spectacle to say the least. 

I have made an attempt to pick up the overnight backpack again, father time is trying to creep in and the ease of less demanding adventures have become the norm, but with kids getting older and the requirements of fatherhood waning I have felt the pull of high country. I love these lofty places where nature seems to be in balance, where even the riggers of its demand for entry offer the most sublime setting, where peace and solitude can be embraced without distraction. It was eventually time for dinner where we each indulged in our own flavor of freeze dried meal before settling in by the fire and eventually turning in for the night.

Saturday, July 18th

The next morning we awoke to a mirrored reflection of the Missions in the glassy surface of Crescent Lake, a stunning sight. We enjoyed warm coffee and breakfast before eventually getting moving. It was about 10:30 by the time we hit the trail out of camp making our way back to the junction with Turquoise Lake where we turned right continuing uphill along the ridge. We made our way through another series of long switchbacks, the higher we climbed the thinner the tree cover and the better the views. Eventually we reached a highpoint around 6,900 feet before making our descent to the outlet of Lagoon Lake. 

The views of the Mission Mountains were stunning as Daughter of the Sun Mountain dominated the horizon. Beyond Lagoon Lake the dirt path gave way to bedrock as we picked our way toward Lace Lake, it didn’t take long for us to realise we were headed in the wrong direction before back tracking to the obvious route toward Turquoise Lake. We took our time with the steep descent toward our objective and found ourselves turning around again near the outlet creek before finally rock hopping our way to the limited shore at Turquoise Lake, elevation 6,420 feet. Once at the lake I made my way to the log jam at the lakes outlet where I found a stunning view up the lake. A good view of Turquoise Lake from the shore is hard to find due to its vertical walls that run straight up toward the highest peaks of the Mission Mountains. Waterfalls abound, fell thousands of feet straight down keeping the lake topped off. Turquoise Lake lives up to its name sake, crystal clear aqua marine waters as cold as they get made swimming unbearable. Wally and Jim went into the deepest of the waters while I chickened out near the outlet in the warmer shallow water. The day was extremely hot so the cold dip was a welcomed relief. After our swim we sat on the boulder lined shore enjoying snacks while soaking our feet, we definitely earned this one, so the much needed break was nice. Even with the amount of effort it takes to get here the lake was quite busy, it’s easy to see why, what a beautiful destination with so much scenery to take in. After a good long break I took the time to soak my shirt before heading out, boy did that take my breath away.

We bid farewell to Turquoise Lake and picked our way over the boulders to the actual trail then began the hot slog uphill. With temps approaching the mid 90s, and little to no shade, it didn’t take long to zap whatever energy I had in the tank. I took my time on the way out, pausing a couple times to catch my breath and muster a little more energy before the next push. Eventually we topped out at the high point where the rest of the trail was smooth sailing until the turn off for Crescent Lake and another uphill climb. I was ready to be done, making the last half mile back into camp a little miserable. Once in camp I crashed into the chair for a minute before going for a swim. Crescent Lake is the perfect temp, much more comfortable than Turquoise Lake. After drying off I relaxed in camp with a cocktail enjoying good conversation with Wally and Jim before getting a fire going and enjoying another freeze dried meal of beef stroganoff before turning in for the night. 

Sunday, July 19th

The next morning we were greeted by another mirror image of the Mission Mountains in the glassy surface of Crescent Lake, absolutely stunning. We enjoyed coffee and breakfast before grabbing our trekking poles and walking packless along the lake shore trail in the direction of Heart Lake. Near the inlet of Crescent Lake the trail turned uphill and after several switch backs and a couple hundred feet of elevation gain found ourselves at the outlet of Heart Lake. After taking in the limited views from the outlet we worked our way left along the west side of the lake to jaw dropping views of Point St. Charles and other unnamed giants reflected in the mirrored surface of Heart Lake, what a stunning vista! 

Heart Lake offers a much more up close and personal feeling of the mountains but lacks in the camping that Crescent Lake had to offer at its outlet in my opinion, good problems to have. After a short break we bid farewell to the Heart Lake and retraced our steps back to camp before loading provisions and hitting the road. We made quick work of the trail and before long eventually refound that side trail to Glacier Lake where we turned right in her direction. We traveled the well used path generally uphill to the turquoise blue waters of Glacier Lake. It was quite obvious this place gets a lot of foot traffic due to the minimal amount of effort it takes to get here, a perfect place for small families. We dropped packs again and enjoyed snacks while Wally swam. Glacier Lake is beautiful and offers an excellent panoramic view of the high country from where we came. Lindy Peak to the left with Daughter-of-the-Sun Mountain anchoring the middle of the giant cirque. We didn’t stay long, and in short order packed up and headed back to the main path where we made quick work of the rest of the trail, and after tiptoeing back across the two exposed tree bridges we found ourselves back at the hot trailhead. 

Back at the car I dropped my pack and put on my sandals. I grabbed a beer and made my way back to Glacier Creek to soak my dogs before hitting the dusty road back to civilization. We made the mandatory stop for a bite to eat in Missoula at Cranky Sams before heading back to Spokane. The Turquoise Lake area is a spectacular destination and doing it over three days gave us plenty of time to see everything with a lot of much needed down time for relaxation. When it was all said and done we covered about 21 miles with roughly 3,100 feet of elevation gain while visiting 6 different lakes. It felt great checking this one off after having it on the back burner for so many years, and needless to say I highly recommend it. For more photos click the link. Turquoise Lake Backpack Photos